SAN JUAN DE LA PENA & CANFRANC

Mountain fastness in western Aragón, and nature valley harbouring rare
bird lifeSitio Natural de Interes Nacional264 ha (652 acres)

I've always thought that San Juan de la Peña (Saint John of the Crag), south-west of Jaca, is one of the world's great hiding places. This monastery in the mountains has long ago lost its monks and has become a romantic destination for nature-lovers. Tucked away under the brow of an enormous cliff, it overlooks an isolated valley in one of the outer ranges of the Pyrenees. To the north the view is bounded by the snow-capped peaks on the French border. The surrounding forests are ideal for unstrenuous hikes and pleasant rambles as far as the nearby town of Jaca. The early kings of Aragón selected this spot as their royal burial ground: its very remoteness would protect their tombs from desecration. Here, too, according to tradition, the 11th-century king, Ramiro I, entrusted 'the sacred chalice of the Last Supper' — the Holy Grail, in other words — to the monks of San Juan for safe keeping. Its presence in this castle-like community of friars could well have given rise to the legend recounted in the l2th-century French grail sagas, which speak of the distant castle of Munsalvaesche — the wild mountain, monte salvaje — where the grail is piously guarded by a company of knights. It is an elusive and inaccessible place, not unlike San Juan de la Peña: 'Those who seek it find it not. It is only found unsought. Munsalvaesche its name.' The monks of San Juan de la Peña did, in fact, possess an ornate jewelled chalice, consisting of two sardonyx bowls joined by a beautifully-worked gold 'cage' and handles, which is now under lock and key in the treasury of the cathedral at València.

The Río Aragón which flows past Jaca is the main artery of another important valley for nature lovers: Canfranc. It also includes the two tributary valleys of the Ríos Lubierne and Estarrún. Canfranc extends all the way to the French border and is bounded on the east by the Tena valley with its Río Gállego and a line of high peaks; on the west by another range of mountains and the Valle de los Angeles; and on the south by the Peña Oroel (1,769 m/5,805 ft). The northern portion of the valley includes the ski resorts of Astún and Candanchú, on the slopes of the Tuca Blanca peak (2,323 m/7,620 ft).

The flora and fauna of these valleys are famous for their variety and abundance. About a thousand species of flowers grow in the fields and meadows adjoining forests of fir and beech that also include maple and hawthorn. Herbalists come here for the spectacular Adenostyles alliaviae ssp. hybrida, with its 2-m (61¼2-ft) stem and large silvery leaves.

The isolation of San Juan de la Peña makes it ideal for bird-watching. Although the Spanish imperial eagle and black vulture are mentioned as occurring here, these may be accidental records. Today the cliffs and buttresses that line the valley are a noted haunt of lammergeiers, as well as griffon and Egyptian vultures, while short-toed and Bonelli's eagles are both regularly seen. Here, too, are the sadly declining lesser kestrels, summer visitors that nest gregariously in church towers and old buildings, as well as more naturally in cliff holes. Other species include the delightful black-eared wheatear, cirl and rock buntings and the blue rock thrush.

BEFORE YOU GO

Maps: IGN 1:25,000 and 1:50,000 Nos. 143, 144, 175 and 176; IGN 1:200,000 Mapa Provincial of Huesca.
Guide-book: Jaca-Canfranc, Cuadernos de Aragón (Trazo Editorial).

GETTING THERE

By car: from Pamplona take the N240 to Puente la Reina de Jaca, then C134 to Jaca. From Huesca, the E07/N330 leads directly to Jaca, the gateway to Canfranc, and to the monastery of San Juan de la Peña and the surrounding Sierra de la Peña. The E07/N330 continues from Jaca north to the French border and Candanchú. The C125 south from Jaca, then HU230 to the west, brings you to San Juan de la Peña, by way of a little-used and scenic route. The shorter, more prosaic route, is via the C134 west from Jaca for about 21 km (13 miles), then south on the HU230; the distance between Jaca and the monastery is 30 km (19 miles).
By rail: there are services from Zaragoza via Huesca to Jaca and Canfranc. The journey from France through the mountains to Jaca, via Canfranc, is spectacular.

WHERE TO STAY

there is accommodation available in Candanchú, Canfranc and Jaca. Try the 3-star Hotel Tobazo, T/F: (974) 37 31 25, in Candanchú; the 3-star Albergue de Santa Cristina, T: 974) 37 33 00, F: 37 33 10, and Hotel Villa de Canfranc, T/F: (974) 37 20 12, and Casa La Truca, T: (974) 37 31 04, in Canfranc-Estación; the 3-star Hotel Canfranc, T: (974) 36 31 32, F: 36 49 79, and 2-star Hotel Conde Aznar, T: (974) 36 10 50, F: 36 07 97, and many others, in Jaca. The 'new' monastery of San Juan de la Peña has a hostel with 5 rooms; it has no telephone and is frequently full.

FURTHER INFORMATION

Tourist offices:
Fernando el Católico, 3,22888 Canfranc, T: (974) 37 31 41, 

and Avda de Madrid, 36, T: 27 09 97, F: 27 09 49. 
Regimiento de Galicia, 2, 22700 Jaca, T: (974) 36 00 98, F: 35 51 65.
Mountaineering club:
Federación Aragonesa de Montañismo, Albareda, 7, 50004 Zaragoza, T: (976) 22 79 71.