PLATEAU DE MILLEVACHES

Remote granite plateau on the north-west edge of the Massif Central

I set off from Merlines along the Tour d'Eygurande long-distance footpath. About an hour's walk out of the town the footpath picks up the route of a disused railway, following the woody gorges of the Chavanon river. Beneath the path vigorous waters gushed over the rocky river bed, while shafts of sunlight glinted on the water.

After a while the sky darkened and fine droplets began to fall, so I pressed on hurriedly to find shelter. As the drizzle turned to rain, I rounded the bend to see a deserted wayside station with a 'For Sale' notice on it. The glass platform canopy was still intact and I waited under it for the storm to pass. Soon the rain eased off and I made tracks, hopeful of seeing some bird life: the clear period after rain is often a good time for spotting birds as they emerge from their shelters to look for food. The practice was up to the theory: in the space of a few minutes, a lesser spotted woodpecker and a merlin flew past me.

For most of its route the path is on the plateau of Millevaches ('a thousand cows'). At first sight the name is an absurdity. This infertile and remote upland is far from the gadding waters of the river valleys and supports few cows. However, its name has nothing to do with cattle but is a corruption of a Celtic word for spring (batz). This immediately makes sense - a thousand springs. The plateau is the source of several important rivers, including the Vienne and the Creuse, as well as a couple of tributaries of the Dordogne.

BEFORE YOU GO

Maps: IGN 1:100,000 No. 41; IGN 1:25,000 Nos. (OT & ET) 2231-32 and 2331-32.

GETTING THERE

By car: N89 from Clermont-Ferrand to Ussel and Tulle is the plateau's southern boundary. A series of turnings off N89 cross the plateau: D982, D979 and D36.
By rail: the SNCF railway line from Clermont-Ferrand to Brive passes through Ussel and Tulle. The line from Ussel to Bugeat, Eymoutiers and Limoges crosses the plateau. There is a service from Ussel to La Courtine.
By bus: bus services from Ussel north to various destinations on the plateau.

WHERE TO STAY

Ussel is the hub of both road and rail services in the area. La Courtine, Egletons, Felletin, Merlines, Meymac, Tarnac and Treignac are other options.

ACTIVITIES

Walking: GR46 and GR440 cross the plateau ending up at Limoges. The Tour d'Eygurande runs along the eastern side of the plateau; pick up the footpath at Merlines or Ussel.
Cycling: bicycles are available at Meymac station.

FURTHER INFORMATION

Tourist office:
Ussel, pl Voltaire, T: 05 55 72 11 50.
ONF Limousin, 40-42 av des Bénédictins, 87000 Limoges, T: 05 55 34 53 13, F: 05 55 43 57 93.